Questions & Answers

Want to know...

  • what you can expect from your JAcobus wood stove?
  • how the combustion system works?
  • what the best thing to burn is?
  • what requirements your chimney must meet?
  • how the stove is turned on?
  • what things you should consider when using the stove for the first time?
  • if you can leave the stove running at night?
  • what kind of maintenance is required?


You can find the answers to all of these questions and more in the JAcobus manual. You can download it here

Want to get the best out of your wood stove? Read our Home Heating tips on this page. Or look at the infographic.



Did you know?...

  • The name JAcobus comes from combining the names Janco and Coby? Janco and Coby de Jong are the founders of the Janco de Jong company. Both of them are still with the company and continue to give 110%!
  • The predecessor of the JAcobus, the Janus woodstove, still exists 30 years later and continues to perform brilliantly? And that the JAcobus is actually a more improved version of the original, sturdy base model?
  • The dimensions of the JAcobus and the JAnus stove are the same? So, if you want to switch, you can easily replace the JAnus with a JAcobus.
  • More and more newly constructed homes have a balanced ventilation system? The JAcobus is ideally suited for these homes due to the external air supply options, e.g. air from the crawl space or from outside.
  • You can now burn pellets in a JAcobus wood-burning stove as well? See the hybrid pellet module here.


FAQs

  • How do I light a JAcobus?
    • When you light a JAcobus stove, it is very important that the combustion chamber is full of wood. Due to the high efficiency of the stove, it is important that the flue becomes hot as quickly as possible so as to generate the right draught.

      Follow the steps below:

      1.Fully open the air supply regulator by pulling the knob under the door towards you.

      2.Open the door.

      3.Insert a piece of wood into the combustion chamber, parallel to the rear wall. Place two firelighters at the bottom of the combustion chamber, then light the firelighters, ideally with an elongated lighter.

      4.Place a sufficient amount of kindling (small pieces of wood) crosswise/perpendicular over the log, creating a ‘wigwam’ pattern.

      5.Place a few (larger) logs on top – don’t skimp! Make this at least three to five large logs.

      6.Leave the door ajar slightly, the door latch against the cam is sufficient.

      7.The kindling will catch fire after five to ten minutes. You should now close the door.

      8.After around 20 to 30 minutes, the logs will be burning on all sides and the combustion chamber will be full of flames (CHECK!). You can now reduce the air supply by pushing in the knob until you hear a click (heating mode*1). A nice, calm flame pattern is a good indication of optimal adjustment of the stove.

      9.If the flames ‘fall’ too much or go out, the temperature in the combustion chamber is not high enough. Do you have enough wood in the stove...?

      10. Fully open the air slider again and wait until the stove is extremely hot, then go back to step 8.

      *1 (explanation of day and night heating mode)

  • How do I kindle a JAcobus?

    • 1.The wood-burning stove should be refilled with wood if:

      1. 
      a.     You think that the temperature in the living room is/is becoming too low.

      b.    There are only glowing charcoal embers in the combustion chamber and you want the stove to continue burning.

      2.Open the door and place at least three to four logs in the combustion chamber. If the temperature in the stove is low, you can place some smaller kindling together with larger logs on the smouldering coal bed.

      3.Pull the air slider fully towards you.

      4.Wait until the fire has fully developed around all logs again before moving the air slider back into heating mode*1 (usually after ten to fifteen minutes).

      5.If you want to stop the stove and there is very little unburned wood left in the combustion chamber (i.e. you have not just filled it), pull the air slider fully open (towards you). The stove will then burn out nicely.

       

      The JAcobus smells the first time it is fired up, why is that?
      PLEASE NOTE: Before using the stove for the first time, or following a lengthy period out of use, check the condition and level of soiling in the flue.

      The first time it is fired up, the stove may give off an unpleasant smell. This is caused by the curing of the heat-resistant paint. With the right ventilation, the smell should disappear after around an hour. The hotter the stove becomes, the sooner the smell will disappear.


  • Which type/size of JAcobus should I buy?
    • It is very important that you buy the right type of JAcobus wood-burning stove, i.e. the stove with the right output. This is determined according to the size of the area that you want to heat. If you have an excessively large stove in a small room, the experience will be unpleasant as temperatures will quickly rise to as much as 30 degrees. Too small, and the opposite will be true – the room will not warm up sufficiently.
      You can determine the correct capacity/output by calculating the length x width x height of the area you wish to heat:


      • JAcobus 6 kW - capacity 60 - 120 m³
      • JAcobus 9 kW - capacity 120 - 160 m³
      • JAcobus 12 kW - capacity 160 - 250 m³


      Can I use the Swiss firing method with the JAcobus wood-burning stove?
      The Swiss method (burning from top to bottom) is not the best way to light a JAcobus stove. The Swiss method works well on wood-burning stoves with an ash drawer and/or stoves where the oxygen enters from underneath. On a JAcobus, the oxygen enters from above, so if you opt for the Swiss method, you’ll simply be reversing everything. If you light a JAcobus in the traditional way (i.e. firelighters first followed by wood on top), you are actually following the Swiss method. See above for how to light and fire a JAcobus correctly.

  • Can I adjust the heating mode (day and night)?
    • Heating mode is the optimal position of the oxygen slider when the stove is tempered. You can feel this position when you move the slider slowly from open to closed. When your stove is delivered, heating mode will be set so that the stove burns well under the most common conditions. If you want more or less oxygen to enter the stove in heating mode, it can be adjusted. You can adjust heating mode according to variables such as the fuel type and draught in the chimney:

      o  Undo the two M5 nuts (in the centre at the bottom of the combustion chamber) one turn each. Do not unscrew the nuts fully!

      o  Move the entire assembly forwards or backwards by pulling or pushing a nut. Pulling forwards will increase the oxygen supply in heating mode. Pushing backwards will decrease the oxygen supply in heating mode.

      o  Please note: a 1 mm adjustment will mean a 15 per cent increase or decrease in air supply in heating mode.

      o  Tighten the two M5 nut when you have finished.

  • The stove does not burn or goes out
    • It is very important that the stove gets hot enough, i.e. that you create a high enough combustion temperature. Not working? Use a moisture meter to check whether your wood is dry and check that the chimney draws well. After all, ‘knowledge is power’! Have your chimney swept at regular intervals, ideally once a year.
      See also ‘How do I correctly fire a JAcobus?’

  • I cannot get the room warm, why is that?
    • The most likely reason is that your stove is too small for the area you wish to heat. The output you achieve can also vary due to the amount of wood in the combustion chamber – if there is too little wood in the combustion chamber, the combustion temperature will be (too) low and the room may not heat up sufficiently.

  • There is smoke in my living room, why is that?
    • Smoke in the living room can have many causes. First check the following:

      • Has the flue been swept recently? Have your flue swept once a year.
      • Are you burning dry wood? Wood is only considered dry once the moisture content is below 20 per cent. Depending on the type of wood, it should be dried in a well-ventilated space for two to three years after the tree has been felled. This should ideally be outdoors, under a canopy.
      • Does your flue extend beyond the ridge of the house? In most cases, a flue or cowl should extend at least 30 cm beyond the ridge of the house.
      • Has the correct (properly insulated) flue been installed? Due to its high efficiency, the flue gas temperature of a JAcobus wood-burning stove is relatively low. It is very important that the flue gas does not cool down excessively in the flue. A JAcobus wood-burning stove will not work well with a masonry flue as these have insufficient insulation. A flexible, stainless steel or rigid flue must always be installed inside the flue. A stainless steel, double-walled system is adequately insulated by itself. 
      • Is there enough ventilation in the room in which the wood-burning stove is situated? If the room does not have any ventilation or if there is a heat recovery or central (extraction) system, there will be an underpressure in the room, which will mean that the stove cannot get enough combustion air or an air at all. In that case, an external air supply will need to be installed.
      • Are you lighting the stove correctly? It is extremely important that the stove is fired up according to the instructions (see above) so that the flue and stove reach the right temperature quickly. This will help to boost the natural draught.
  • There’s a chemical smell in the living room, why is that?
    • You will notice a chemical paint smell from a new JAcobus wood-burning stove the first time that it is used. This is due to the curing of the paint. With concrete models, it could take five to six uses for the smell to disappear.
      A persistent chemical smell can have several causes:


      • Do you have a pet? If so, always check the air supply and convection space (double wall around the combustion chamber). These could be clogged with hair and/or dust that has been drawn in. This could start to smell as the heat increases.
      • Fine particulate and gases released when burning candles and tea lights can react when the stove is used. The convection current created by the JAcobus will cause this particulate and these gases to be directed past the hot combustion chamber, where they can react chemically and emit an odour.
      • The stove is too close to the wall, allowing wall paint, plaster, cement, etc. to emit an odour.
      • If there is a large amount of dust in the room, it can also lead to a chemical smell. You will often smell this once when you fire the stove for the first time after the summer. After that, you shouldn’t notice it again.
      • Certain paints that are used in the home may chemically react due to the heat from the stove. The convection current directs them past the hot stove and will give the impression that the stove smells.
  • The window becomes dirty when the stove is used
    • Deposits on the window of the JAcobus are caused by combustion temperatures that are too low. This is usually due to the use of damp wood or wood that isn’t dry enough – water does not like to burn and as water evaporates, it extracts the heat from the combustion process. If the wood is dry and the window is still turning dirty, then you should place more wood in the stove or wait longer to temper the stove – in other words, you are skimping a little and being too cautious!
      TIP: See the topic below!

      Burning wet wood means:

      • That you will not achieve the values indicated in the technical data table. You will have low efficiency and an increase in carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon emissions due to incomplete combustion.
      • Intensive soiling of the glass and surfaces inside the stove.
      • Intensive soiling of the flue due to creosote formation, which is the main cause of chimney fires. 
  • There is a crack in the (stone) interior of my stove
    • A crack in the interior is caused by expansion/contraction of the material as a result of differences in temperature. A crack is not a problem as it will not affect the quality and/or safety of the JAcobus. If holes start to develop in the interior, however, you will need a replacement. You can replace the interior fairly easily yourself.

  • The window is broken, why is that?
    • If you clean the window with a cleaning agent, it is very important that you dry the window thoroughly afterwards. This is because moisture in the rabbet could cause the material to rust. This will create tension that may causes the window to crack.
      TIP: clean the window shortly before firing up the stove. In that case, any remaining moisture will evaporate quickly and not cause any rust to form.

      When closing the door, it is important that the window is always clear of wood (i.e. there is no tension on the glass due to the wood not fitting inside the stove properly). If there is any tension on the window, it could crack.

  • The baffle plate is warped, why is that?
    • If the baffle plate has warped, the JAcobus has been used too often at too high a temperature.
      The air slider would have been fully open for too long while the combustion chamber was full of wood. Neither the baffle plate nor stove itself are designed for this level of heat.
      The baffle plate is not covered by our guarantee, only the fixed steelwork is covered by the lifetime guarantee.

  • There is a stain/molten material on my JAcobus, how can I remove it?
    • To get your (steel) stove nice and clean again, you should proceed as follows:


      • Peel the material away with a tool, such as a putty knife.
      • Then, sand carefully using Scotch Bright, steel wool or fine sandpaper.
      • Clean/degrease the surface thoroughly and remove all dust.
      • Repaint it with heat-resistant paint.
      • TIP: hold the spray can a sufficient distance away (30 cm is sufficient) from the surface being sprayed. Apply two thin coats of paint rather than a single thick coat.
  • My JAcobus is starting to rust, why is that?
    • Rust always indicates the presence of moisture. This can have several causes:


      • The wood-burning stove is in a damp location.
      • The stove pipe is not installed in a way that allows proper drainage (condensation runs along the outside of the pipe onto the stove).
      • There has been water on the stove, perhaps from a kettle or during cleaning, etc.


      In most cases, rust can be resolved by lightly sanding and spraying the stove with our spray can 937. See also the topic above.

  • The JAcobus makes a ticking/banging sound
    • The ‘ticking/banging’ sound made by a wood-burning stove usually occurs when the stove heats up or cools down quickly. The material then expands or shrinks. This creates tension and can cause this sound to be heard. It is nothing to be concerned about. JAcobus stoves are known for their low-noise operation due to the unique suspension mechanism of the combustion chamber. Keep in mind, however, that no stove will ever be completely silent.

  • There’s a bird in the flue or in the JAcobus... What should I do?
    • If you remove the baffle plate, the bird will eventually fall into the stove, from where it can be removed. 
      TIP: Birds always fly towards the daylight, so if the bird manages to escape and fly out into your living area, make sure to close all curtains and open the route to the outside.
       
      It’s a good idea to seal the flue with mesh to prevent birds from entering. We might be able to install this when we come to inspect and/or sweep your chimney.

  • Do you also install flue pipes?
    • We can take care of full installation of your wood-burning stove and/or flue for you. We can provide a no-obligation quote after visiting or preparing a construction drawing. Please get in touch with us to discuss.
      Are we not available in your area? In that case, one of our dealers would be happy to help you.

  • Can I shorten or lengthen the JAcobus wood-burning stove?
    • A JAcobus wood-burning stove can be extended by a maximum of 220 mm in one piece. Further extension is possible using a strap or strip.
      The stove can also be shortened to a maximum of 190 mm.
      PLEASE NOTE: It is not possible to shorten or extend a concrete version of the JAcobus.

  • Can I convert my existing JAcobus into a concrete version?
    • It is not possible to convert a ‘standard’ JAcobus wood-burning stove into a concrete version. Please get in touch to ask about the options for trading in your current stove for a concrete version.

  • Does a new JAcobus come with the new stainless steel door seal as standard?
    • The new innovative stainless steel door seal is pre-fitted to all new JAcobus wood-burning stoves as standard.

  • When is an external air supply needed?
    • If there are no ventilation options in the area being heated and/or if there is a heat recovery system installed.
      No external air supply needs to be installed if there is ventilation, such as ventilation grilles or a tilting window.

  • How far from the wall should my JAcobus be situated?
    • A JAcobus is doubled-walled, including at the rear, which means that very little heat is emitted to the rear and sides. It can, therefore, be placed a relatively short distance from the wall. We usually install the JAcobus 13 cm from the wall. With a top outlet, that means the centre of the flue will be 25 cm from the wall.

  • Can I place a JAcobus wood-burning stove in front of a window?

    • Yes, you can. The distance from the rear of the stove to the window should be at least 20 cm.

  • Is it possible to build in a JAcobus?
    • Not in the way you would an inset fireplace, no. It is possible to shorten the stove to max. 190 mm though. That way, it might still be possible for you to place it under something, depending on the type of material. You can place a wall at the sides, provided that the wall is at least 10 cm away.

  • The ECOfan makes a humming noise, what can I do about it?
    • The faster it turns, the more you will hear it, which is perfectly normal. You can easily bend the bi-metal under the base of the fan out slightly to create more space between the stove and the fan when it becomes very hot. This will cause it to turn more slowly and produce less noise.

  • The ECOfan is no longer running, why is that?
    • An ECOfan will usually break because it has become too hot. This could happen if the fan blade cannot turn due to it being blocked by a pipe or wall or because the blade is warped. It’s also important that the position on the stove is well chosen. See the correct position of an Ecofan on the stove here.
      The Peltier element can also break (the white plate between the base and upper part), as can the motor.
      The Peltier element costs €15, the motor €20 and repair by us costs €15. The total price for a repair is €50. Alternatively, you can buy a refurbished/trade-in Ecofan (fitted with all new parts) for €50, in which case you must return the old Ecofan. Prices exclude shipping costs in both cases. 
      You can order Ecofan parts here.
      There is a two-year warranty on the Ecofan.

  • Will burning wood become illegal?
    • An entire website with information on this topic could be written! But let me give you a quick answer:

      no, burning wood will not become illegal. New wood-burning stoves do, however, need to satisfy the new ECOdesign standard. JAcobus does of course! As wood burners, however, it’s important that we are considerate to our neighbours. We can do this by:
      1. Burning CLEAN and DRY wood.
      2. Allowing the stove to reach a decent temperature and tempering only when the stove is very hot. 
      3. Reading the part at the top of this category again: ‘How do I correctly fire a JAcobus?’
      You can read all general tips here.

  • How can I recognise a genuine JAnus?
    • Every original JAnus® wood-burning stove...


      • Has a JANUS or JA inscription/logo on the front, above the door.
      • Bears a CE mark. You can find this mark on the type plate at the rear of the stove. Please note! The type plate will show the manufacturer of the original JAnus® wood-burning stove as (Smeedatelier) Janco de Jong BV Gorredijk.
      • Has a unique serial number. You can find the serial number on the type plate at the rear of the stove.
      • Has an air slider for the oxygen supply at the front, above the door, not at the side of the stove.


      Stoves that are very similar to JAnus, such as Anyfire Beaufort, Quinta, Jong Design, Nelis, are not made by Janco de Jong BV. We are unable to supply parts for any of these stoves.

  • Can you use lignite briquettes in a JAcobus?

    • Yes, you can. You can achieve the best results by mixing 50 per cent lignite with 50 per cent wood. Note that these briquettes will leave more ash behind after burning.

  • Can you use RUF or PINIkay briquettes in a JAcobus?
    • Yes, you can. Note that briquettes achieve very high combustion temperatures. Use no more than two or 3 briquettes at a time. 

  • Can you use pallet wood/spruce waste wood in a JAcobus?
    • Waste pallet wood is best used as kindling. If you fire your stove continuously with only waste pallet wood (spruce/pine), it will shorten the service life of your stove. This type of wood degasses so quickly that it will generate (too) much output in a short time. This will cause rapidly fluctuating stress differences in the steel, which can cause cracks to form. As such, pallet wood is ideal for lighting a stove quickly, but not for ongoing use.

  • Can you use coal in a JAcobus?
    • No, you can’t use coal.

  • Can you connect the JAcobus to a central heating system?
    • No. A JAcobus wood-burning stove cannot be fitted with a heat exchanger for (central heating) water. The efficiency of a JAcobus is already so high that extracting more heat from it is just not possible. The flue gas temperature would become too low and give rise to problems in the form of condensation and soiling in the flue.



Home Heating Tips


Ten tips to ensure optimal use

Most people enjoy the warmth and the atmosphere created by wood-burning stoves. There are people, however, who find the smell and the smoke uncomfortable. Many factors affect the composition of smoke and thus the problem of heating nuisance. These include:

• The stove
• The flue
• The fuel
• Usage
• The weather

We have listed ten useful tips that will help you to manage these issues so that you can use your stove without causing too much nuisance.

The stove

1. Ensure that your stove is the right size in relation to the area you wish to heat. Many stoves have too high a capacity. This will mean that the stove becomes too hot too quickly when fired up, causing you to temper (suppress) the fire too much. This will then cause the release of pollutants as a result of incomplete combustion. You can find websites that offer a calculation tool or chart that you can use to calculate the capacity that you need. In practice, it’s better to engage a specialist who can assess your situation and advise you: www.jancodejong.nl

The flue
2. Ensure that your chimney and flue are properly matched to your fireplace or stove. With a carefully matched and insulated chimney and flue, flue gases will be extracted properly. This is important for your own health and for preventing chimney fires. Have an installer check whether your chimney and flue are suitable. A flue that is too low or that is installed close to adjacent properties can cause nuisance because the wood smoke is unable to disperse properly. A rain cowl on the flue can also obstruct the outflow of flue gases and give rise to poor dispersion.

3. Having your chimney swept at regular intervals helps to prevent problems. Have your chimney swept by a recognised chimney sweep at least once a year.

The fuel
4. Burn dry, untreated wood – split wood that has been allowed to dry outside under a canopy for at least two years. The wood should not be too thick (max. 7 cm) and be suitable for your fireplace or wood-burning stove. Dry wood will have cracks and loose pieces of bark. Burning wet wood will lead to incomplete combustion. In addition, wet wood emits far less heat, as water doesn’t like to burn, and wet wood is more likely to cause soot deposits and chimney fires. Do not burn wood that is painted, stained or impregnated. Scrap wood, plywood and chipboard are also unsuitable. These can release (very) harmful substances, such as chlorine compounds, PAHs and heavy metals.

Usage
5. Light the fire with firelighters and small logs. Never light a fire with liquid substances! The best approach is to place a thick piece of wood on top of the ash and then place loose wood and firelighters on top. Stack the wood loosely to allow the air through. Alternatively, follow the instructions provided by the stove supplier or manufacturer.

6. Ensure that there is plenty of fresh air in the area in which the stove is used. An open fireplace in particular will consume a lot of air. A wood-burning stove will consume far less air. Ventilate the home adequately, e.g. by leaving a window or door open a little, while the stove is in use.

7. Ensure that the air supply is adequate. Fully open the outlet damper to the flue (if there is one) when you start firing up the stove. Good wood-burning stoves have adjustable dampers, which can be used to regulate the air supply. Open these dampers fully when firing up the stove. You can reduce the oxygen supply only when the fire is very hot and the wood is fully burning. You cannot achieve these conditions with an open fireplace.

8. Check regularly that you are burning the wood properly. It’s easy to check this yourself. Pop outside to check the colour of the smoke coming from the chimney. Colourless smoke indicates good combustion. Coloured smoke (white, grey, black, blue) indicates poor combustion. The flame in the wood-burning stove should be bright yellow and should not flicker. An orange, irregular flame indicates incomplete combustion. Increase the air supply if you see dark smoke or orange flames. 9. Allow a wood fire to burn out by itself. If you suppress a wood fire by closing the air supply, you will cause the release of harmful substances. Allow the fire to burn out by itself. The best way to do this is with the air slider fully open.

The weather
10. Do not use a stove when there is no wind or it is foggy. Flue gases will linger around the house for longer if there is no wind or it’s foggy, which is harmful to your health and that of your neighbours. A wind force of less than Beaufort two is considered ‘windless’ weather.

We wish you every enjoyment with your stove!